Advanced Scrimshaw Techniques
July 23 – 27, 2018 $300
Continuing Ed only – not for college credit
Learn advanced scrimshaw techniques one-on-one with Jim Stevens. You do not need an interest in Gunsmithing to take this course. The techniques taught are the same for anyone wanting to learn how to create beautiful scrimshaw. This course goes beyond basic scrimshaw into areas of specialized tool making, colored scrimshaw, carving, and even scrimshaw inlay art. The world of scrimshaw covers a much broader range of art than just etching images in black ink. This is an intensive, hands-on course taught by artist, sculptor, and scrimshander Jim Stevens.
Jim Stevens is a world-renowned scrimshander, writer and artist. He has three books published on scrimshaw techniques and has been commissioned to create works for collectors throughout the world. He is a Kennedy Center Registered VSA Artist in both the visual and literary arts and brings his expertise and his no-fail attitude to inspire all who attend his classes. No other art form in American has a longer history. No other expression of art has such significance or influence on the American spirit.
Pre-Requisite: Scrimshaw class or consent of instructor.
Jim Stevens is a world-renowned scrimshander, writer and artist. He has been commissioned to create works of art for collectors throughout the world. Jim brings his expertise and his no-fail attitude with him to inspire all who attend his classes, paving the way for all to express themselves in a media that warms the soul. No other art form in American has a longer history. No other expression of art has such significance or influence on the American spirit.
Visit Jim’s website at http://scrimshawstudio.com/ or email Jim at firstname.lastname@example.org
One hobby knife handle (ie: X-Acto knife) (with rubber grip if you prefer)
Package of 5, #11 hobby knife blades
One small tube of Titanium White artist’s oil paint
One small tube of Ivory Black artist’s oil paint
Mechanical pencil with fine-point HB lead
One #2 pencil
One black aquarellable pencil (Stabilo or other brand)
One white aquarellable pencil (Stabilo or other brand)
One pencil sharpener (small hand held type)
One roll of transparent tape
One pair of scissors
One pink eraser
A clear plastic ruler (6 inches long is fine)
One small can of spray adhesive
One small can of artist’s spray fixative
One small bottle of rubbing alcohol
One small pair of pliers
One small sharpening stone
Three sheets each of #400 and #600 wet/dry sandpaper
One small package of .0000 steel wool
One paper dust mask (to use while sanding and polishing)
Safety glasses or goggles (required in school’s tool shops)
One small package of facial tissue
One package of assorted fine point, hand sewing needles
One small package of cotton swabs (Q-tip or other brand)
One double-ended reversible pin vise (one end with zero minimum capacity)
*Hand-held rotary tool with small selection of ball burrs
*Rotary Tool Note: There are many brands of rotary tools with Dremel probably being the best-known name brand, but there are other brands out there and as long as you are comfortable with it, whichever one you choose will be fine. You don’t need an expensive one. Also, you only need a small selection of smaller ball burrs for your rotary tool. You can find them in sets of 5 to 10 for a reasonable price.
**Headband Magnifier Note: For those buying one for the first time, Opti-visors headband magnifiers are a popular choice and one of the few that come with a choice of lenses. Lens powers are designated by the numbers 3,5,7, and10. A #3 lens is 1x magnification and allows you to work about 14 inches from your material. Not much bending, but frankly not much help either. A #5 is 2x magnification and allows you to work about 8 inches from your material. I find this is fine for most work. A #10 gives 3x magnification but only about 4 inches of work distance. This is great for minute details but can be hard on the back over long periods of time. I use a #5 Opti-visor lens for general work and switch to a #10 for those times when I need the extra power for very fine details. I guess the best advice I can give new buyers is to get what you think will work the best for you and what fits your budget. Other types of magnification include microscopes, thread counters, combination lamp/magnifiers, jewelers loupes, binocular loupes and other types of magnifiers during the
course. If you already use any of these magnifiers (or another) and are comfortable and enjoy using what you have, go ahead and bring it.